Florian Wowretzko is an emerging German born London-based avant-garde designer with a strong focus on menswear. Florian’s first collection “Fashgasm” for Autumn/Winter 2011 really sets the tone for what is to come in his later collections; as with the later collections, “Fashgasm” uses black as the principal color and the pieces are full of the idea of “transformation” and cultural innuendo. His signature style is a black on black colour palette with a strong use of shape and texture throughout the garments. The collections, especially “Inhale/Exhale” for Spring/Summer 2013 and “Burnout” for Spring/Summer 2014, challenge social concepts of gender norms by showing men in longer silhouettes, even dresses. Florian shows an impeccable ability to manipulate several different luxury fabrics, such as lamb leather and neoprene, to create strong silhouettes with a sense of structure and flow all at once.
Florian’s latest collection entitled “Utrenja” is wrought with religious symbolism, specifically taking influence from Orthodox clerics in the headpieces, flowing robes and burkas. “Utrenja” was inspired by Krzysztof Penderecki’s 1970s works Utrenja, The Entombment of Christ and The Resurrection of Christ. Leather paneling and accessories, such as rings and corsets, are used throughout, proving that Florian considers the whole body and the whole story when creating a collection. Here are a few more of our favourite looks and pieces.