Back in May, we brought Nombre De Identification to you as one of our first brand profiles. And today, as they go through a bit of rebranding as NDI Clothing, we are very excited to bring you the exclusive interview we did with Andrij Brenovan, one half of the emerging Ukrainian fashion label as they are set to launch their debut collection for Autumn Winter 2015 "Out of Season". Here, you can see a bit of what goes into making a fledgling fashion label, what inspires them and where they want to take their label in the future.
Erebus: What inspired you to get into fashion design?
NDI: In high school, Ira (Butlerska) had to choose one of the free educational courses, and she chose a course of cutting and sewing it all started.
Erebus: What motivated you to launch your own fashion label?
NDI: We always wanted to create something [of our] own
Erebus: How would you describe your brand? Where did you get the name? Can you tell us a little about this history of NDI?
NDI: We always wanted to make a mark that will balance on the verge of fashion and art. We have always been inspired by the idea of the opportunity to present the clothes as an equal member of art on a level with paintings and sculptures. At the same time we would like to translate this idea into a commercial product.
Initially, we had planned to do without the brand name, but because it is impossible from a commercial point of view, we had the idea to name the brand "identification number" that it seems to us, the idea of the brand conveys. What is the name of a series of works like conceptual artist as whether it would place the brand name must be the serial number of the work.
Erebus: What or who inspires your designs? How is this reflected in your designs?
NDI: The inspiration for the first collection was the idea of unification of sculpture and painting. We like to be primed canvas but instead that it would draw a picture is stitched together from a sculpture in the form of jackets. At this point, we take inspiration from classical sculpture, in the minimalism of color, and also the ability to transmit force in a fragile stone.
Erebus: What are you favourite materials to work with? How did you discover the liquid rubber covered cotton as a fabric to use in apparel?
NDI: Now we like to work with our painted material, each time it is a challenge because it forces us to violate the rules of all kinds of sewing, because it is very difficult to manufacture.
The material appeared on numerous media experimentation on cloth using all sorts of additional materials to impart certain properties and unusual textures.
Erebus: What is your favourite piece(s) from your collections?
NDI: We find the idea interesting jacket with a backpack when she came to us in the head, it seemed unbelievable.
Erebus: Who is your audience? Who do you have in mind whilst designing your collections?
NDI: They are creative people, to some extent like-minded people who appreciate something unusual, interesting and conceptual.
Erebus: In your opinion, what does it take to make a success of a fashion brand?
NDI: The first thing you need to understand that 95% of the work on the brand is a business. On this much of the success depends on the right business model. It is necessary to pay attention to it.
Erebus: From where have you received your biggest lessons about the industry?
NDI: The biggest lesson we have so far by trial and error, each day discovering something new.
Erebus: Of what achievement or recognition are you most proud in your career?
NDI: We are still at the beginning of the way, so our greatest achievements are still ahead.
Erebus: Where would you like to see NDI in 10 years?
NDI: After 10 years, we would like to see a full-fledged fashion show NDI in the calendar of the Paris Fashion Week.
Erebus: How do you feel NDI stands out in such a saturated industry?
NDI: From the outset we wanted to ensure that would make a product that will have its own identity, and we think that at the moment we succeed.
Erebus: What advice would you give someone thinking of starting a career in the fashion industry?
NDI: It seems to us there are two principles of success in any business.
- The main thing to start because in most cases this is the most difficult.
- Do not stop, because if you stop, it means that you never started.
Erebus: What is the best piece of advice you have received?
NDI: "Be stupid" by Renzo Rosso.
This advice founder Diesel, which we read in one of his interviews, a very long time [ago].
Erebus: What’s next for NDI?
NDI: At the moment, we select potential tissue for collection. Comes to mind denim, I have long wanted to use this fabric for avant-garde clothes.
We plan to continue to evolve, to carry out new studies and by experimenting with the material, improving the quality of production, and in the next couple of years to debut on the Paris fashion week.
Here, you can see some of the greatest pieces of the collection. We also appreciate that everything, from design to production, happens in their workshop in Kiev.